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Healthy Home Gardening


Primitive Fire Making Plants
  Primitive Fire Making Plants April 30, 2014
Trying to make a bow-drill fire with the wrong materials is a good way to lose your temper. If you try to start a fire with a hand-drill using sappy materials, ie: pine or maple, you will have blisters but no fire. Here are a few types of wood that I've used or look like they fit the bill. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=413[[]] Wild Teasel Dipsacaceae Dipsacus fullonum The stem, once trimmed with a knife, looks gre Primitive Fire Making Plants

what is this disease : fungal, enviromental, bacterial or viral?
  what is this disease : fungal, enviromental, bacterial or viral? March 18, 2014
what is this disease : fungal, enviromental, bacterial or viral?

Foraging Workshop
  Foraging Workshop September 04, 2012
Foraging Workshop

Foraging - Uinta Mountains, July 20
  Foraging - Uinta Mountains, July 20 July 21, 2012
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Blog.php?pid=140[[]] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3404[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3403[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3402[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3401[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3400[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegarde Foraging - Uinta Mountains, July 20

Foraging July 16 - Notes
  Foraging July 16 - Notes July 16, 2012
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Blog.php?pid=140[[]] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Near 2700 s 1100 e [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3363[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3361[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3354[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3353[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3350[[]] [[]]htt Foraging July 16 - Notes

Pottering around in the Garden - Pond Scum
  Pottering around in the Garden - Pond Scum July 10, 2012
After the successful control of the fishbone fern and the unsuccessful attempt at growing anything in the newly discovered garden beds the next priority was the pond. --- The pond was found to be well constructed with no leaks in the rock walls. However the neglect was apparent. The bottom half of the knee deep pond was made up of a thick layer of black sludge from decayed plant matter and the top of stagnant brown water teeming with mosquito larvae. --- I spent wee Pottering around in the Garden - Pond Scum

Lamb's Canyon - July 8, 2012
  Lamb's Canyon - July 8, 2012 July 08, 2012
Here is a few of the plants that we found on our hike up Lamb's Canyon. There are still a few left to be identified. Rosaceae [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=122[[]] Ericaceae [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=2857[[]] Ranunculaceae [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=2165[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=586[[]] Malvaceae [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=3337[[]] Onagraceae [[]]http://healthyhomegardeni Lamb's Canyon - July 8, 2012

Pottering around in the Garden - War on Weeds
  Pottering around in the Garden - War on Weeds July 06, 2012
Hey everyone I just wanted to tell you a little about my garden and what I've been up to lately garden-wise. --- When I first arrived at my little patch of earth 1.6 years ago the garden was a mess of neglect overrun with weeds. The garden was composed of about 90% fishbone fern, agapanthus and privet. The last 10% contained a small pond, a few other scattered plants which had managed to survive thus far and a couple of large shade trees expertly positioned on the upper side of Pottering around in the Garden - War on Weeds

Most Important Plant Families to Know
  Most Important Plant Families to Know June 23, 2012
These are the most common plant families found in North
America. Learning all of these families is easier than you
think. You already know most of them by other names. All
plant families end in ACEAE, pronounced
"AH-SAY-AI" in Latin, and sometimes,
"AH-SEE-AY" in English. Aster / Daisy /
p?q=Asteraceae[[]] Rose / Apple / Cherry / Strawberry /
Most Important Plant Families to Know

Novice Photographer Exploring Plants
  Novice Photographer Exploring Plants June 14, 2012
Found this site a week or so ago when seeking plant identification. Hope to learn what plants I'm photographing and more! Friday 6/15/12 Added a Grevillea (pink pearl?), looked like Rosemary which helped me trace it to it's family. Interested in learning which plants are edible. Tall bush w several stalks containing flowers will be my next research, as I noticed pods on the plant I was photographing today. That would compliment my training in beginning emergency response. You never know when i Novice Photographer Exploring Plants

UForage - Plant Identification Club
  UForage - Plant Identification Club June 10, 2012
UForage is a plant identification club that emphasizes learning plant families. We don't only focus on edible plants, but all plants found in Utah. We meet once a week in Salt Lake City, Utah. We meet at a different place each time. We learn to identify the plants and other creatures around our neighborhoods. If you would like to learn more about foraging, edible weeds, wild plants, mycology, botany, gardening, and plant photography, call our project director: Scott Lindsley: 206-423-7147 Here UForage - Plant Identification Club

Bee Swarm Free Removal Utah SLC Provo Tooele Ogden
  Bee Swarm Free Removal Utah SLC Provo Tooele Ogden May 29, 2012
Swarming is the way bees multiply when there home becomes over crowded. Before leaving the bees feed a few eggs 2 days or younger, royal jelly to start new queens. Scout bees look for a new location. When one is found, the old queen and about three quarters of the bees leave. You can help save the bees by contacting us to safely remove the swarm from your home or office. HD YouTube Video: [[]]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCwMynpSvcY[[]] Contact us: [[]]http://SolNectarHoney.com[[]] Bee Swarm Free Removal Utah SLC Provo Tooele Ogden

Honeybee Swarm Removal
  Honeybee Swarm Removal May 04, 2012
Bee swarms can be kind of scary. If you see a swarm, don't worry. The swarm is mostly harmless and is unlikely to attack unless they feel under attack, this can happen with a lawn mower or other power equipment. Never attempt to kill the bees in a swarm, Honey bees are very helpful to the environment. Swarms can relocate very quickly, this one moved within a few minutes. When you see a swarm, the original hive should be close nearby. Call a local beekeeper and if it's spring time, they'll usual Honeybee Swarm Removal

Water Web
  Water Web July 03, 2011
Water Web

Good Firestarting Woods - Red Birch
  Good Firestarting Woods - Red Birch May 30, 2011
White Birch is one of the best woods for getting a fire started, but in many places, white birch is no where to be found. Red Birch is a great alternative. Red Birch is easily found and identified. It will usually be found growing right next to the water. The bark dries incredibly fast, and the dry bark burns like cardboard dipped in gasoline. In this video a lighter is used because the bark is still a bit damp. With dry bark, you could get an ember just with sparks, if you prepare it a bit by Good Firestarting Woods - Red Birch

Foraging Wild Edibles
  Foraging Wild Edibles March 20, 2011
Foraging is one of the most empowering skills a person can have. Not only does it connect you to your environment, it enables you to utilize what is already around you, for free. Along with learning what to eat and how to eat it, one also learns how to use the plant for other things. It is also interesting to learn about our ancient past and the myths surrounding the plants that grow all around us. These myths help us remember the plant's uses. In the ancient past, knowlege, was knowlege of plan Foraging Wild Edibles

Secrets To Orchids and Growing Indoor Plants
  Secrets To Orchids and Growing Indoor Plants February 08, 2011
Growing indoor plants like orchids is an ideal way to establish attractive and peaceful settings while boosting a sense of happiness. In addition, growing indoor plants can be a fulfilling hobby and can help cleanse the air in your home. To do well at growing indoor plants, you need to understand how the environment indoors affects orchids and how cultivation varies from growing them outdoors. There are many factors that you need to consider when growing indoor plants like orchids. The first t Secrets To Orchids and Growing Indoor Plants

Orchid Fertilizer - Caring For Orchids
  Orchid Fertilizer - Caring For Orchids February 06, 2011
Orchids in their natural environment, obtain nutrients from organic matter that accumulates around their roots. When fertilizing orchids you provide them with the nutrients they need to help them flourish and also keeps your plants healthy. It's best when fertilizing orchids is to fertilize often. Fertilize once a week or whenever you water, but only fertilize when they are actively growing and water your plants just before you fertilize. There are several types of fertilizers available that y Orchid Fertilizer - Caring For Orchids

Orchid Problems and Causes
  Orchid Problems and Causes January 26, 2011
No matter what type of plant you grow you eventually are going to have problems. You will sooner or later have orchid problems if you grow orchids also. Orchids can live for a very long time, and for this to happen the right conditions must exist and when problems do occur they must be dealt with immediately or you plants will suffer. When growing orchids there are several orchid problems you may encounter.Some of these orchid problems may be bloom problems like no flowering spikes, flower wil Orchid Problems and Causes

Orchid Maintenance - Keeping Your Orchids Healthy
  Orchid Maintenance - Keeping Your Orchids Healthy January 20, 2011
Several things come to mind when talking about orchid maintenance and the proper way to care for them. Some of the things that do come to mind are how much light do they need, how much and when to water them, the correct temperature, when to fertilize and how often, the type of potting material to use, and ventilation. These are all important factors in good orchid maintenance. Light The light requirements for orchids will depend on the type of plant you have. The proper type of light is perha Orchid Maintenance - Keeping Your Orchids Healthy

Wedding Orchids - An Excellent Choice
  Wedding Orchids - An Excellent Choice January 17, 2011
When you get married flowers play an integral part in any wedding ceremony and by using orchids you symbolize rare beauty, love, and refinement. There is nothing more elegant at a wedding (other than the Bride) then wedding orchids. More than just a decoration, orchids have become a very popular tradition at weddings. There are several species of orchids used in weddings today and one of the most popular orchid is the cymbidium orchid. These elegant flowers have large blossoms and come in seve Wedding Orchids - An Excellent Choice

Facts About Orchid Types - Popular Orchids
  Facts About Orchid Types - Popular Orchids January 16, 2011
Orchidaceae, commonly referred to as the Orchid family. It is currently believed to be the second largest family of flowering plants in the world with over 25,000 species of orchids and more than 100,000 hybrids. The number of orchid types equals more than twice the number of bird species, and about four times the number of mammal species. In fact there are only two different orchid types, which are terrestrial and epiphytes orchids. Terrestrial orchids grow on the ground and the Epiphytes gr Facts About Orchid Types - Popular Orchids

Tips on how to Water Orchids
  Tips on how to Water Orchids January 13, 2011
Knowing how to water orchids may seem fairly easy but they do require a little different procedure than watering other household plants. One of the quickest and easiest ways to kill an orchid is to over water it. Watering orchids is one of the critical keys to the success to orchid culture. There are many variables in how to water orchids and knowing the factors that affect how often you water orchids will help you grow and keep your orchids healthy. Some of these factors are the growing envir Tips on how to Water Orchids

Growing Orchids
  Growing Orchids January 02, 2011
Have you ever thought about growing orchids? Well in this article we are going to discuss how wonderful and easy it is to grow and get them to bloom. Orchids are a wonderful household plant and can be grown indoors if you live in cold climates and if you live in warmer climates you can grow them outdoors. If you are going to be growing orchids then you must understand what type of climate they grow best in. A lot of orchids grow in trees out of the bark or they grow terrestrial which means the Growing Orchids

Caring for Orchids the Right Way
  Caring for Orchids the Right Way December 30, 2010
Orchids have always had a reputation for being hard to grow and take care of. However with a little bit of know-how and the right information on the type of plant you have you’ll find caring for orchids is quite easy. Orchids have become very popular and always seem to be in style. There are so many types of orchids to choose from, with their amazing colors and amazing beauty you should not have any trouble at all finding one that is right for you. Caring for orchids can be exciting,fun and r Caring for Orchids the Right Way

Orchid Information - Enjoy the amazing world of orchids
  Orchid Information - Enjoy the amazing world of orchids December 12, 2010
Even You can Grow orchids with EASE when you have accurate Orchid Information. Have you ever asked or thought to yourself if it could be possible to grow orchids, or thought you would like to grow an orchid but don't know anything about how to grow them. A lot of people are under the assumption or feel that orchids are expensive and require a lot of work to grow. Orchids have a myth about them that they are hard to grow due to their tropical origin. Well a lot of people are wrong! Because wit Orchid Information - Enjoy the amazing world of orchids

Herbal Anti-virals
  Herbal Anti-virals July 28, 2010
Anti-virals, like antibiotics, are intended to attack one class of infectious diseases, the viruses. And like antibiotics…. with less and less of the prescription ones seeming to work well. Cat’s Claw (Uncaria Tomentosa ) - Although virtually unheard of in the United States until recently, the beneficial effects of the Peruvian herb Uncaria tomentosa have been studied at research facilities in Peru, Austria, Germany, England, Hungary and Italy, since the 1970's. Properties attributed to cat's c Herbal Anti-virals

Poisons and Treatments
  Poisons and Treatments July 24, 2010
Paracelsus, the father of toxicology, once wrote: "Everything is poison, there is poison in everything. Only the dose makes a thing not a poison." Plants have different types of toxins; each acts differently, with diverse symptoms, and treatments. Here is a small look into those toxins. ---Aconite--- Symptoms: Tingling of the mouth and numbness, soon extending to the entire surface of the body; strangling sensation in the throat and difficult swallowing; sense of sinking and pain in Poisons and Treatments

Plants and Wildlife of the Utah Desert
  Plants and Wildlife of the Utah Desert July 19, 2010
Here are a few plants and animals found near Delta, Utah. This area is the most remote area in the United States. Also one of the most desolate. These creatures are highly adapted to extreme drought, heat, and even freezing temperatures. === PLANTS === [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=2440[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=2439[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pid=2438[[]] [[]]http://healthyhomegardening.com/Plant.php?pi Plants and Wildlife of the Utah Desert

Kitchen Medicine - Part 3
  Kitchen Medicine - Part 3 July 15, 2010
Vegetables Artichoke (Cynara scolymus) – Artichokes have diuretic properties, while increasing blood circulation, regenerating liver tissue and stimulating the gall bladder. Artichoke is said to reduce blood lipids, serum cholesterol, and blood sugar Asapragus (Asparagus officinalis) – Asparagus has diuretic properties, and as such used to treat urinary tract infections, and kidney and bladder stones. It has been believed to be an aphrodesiac. Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) - Bean pods are effect Kitchen Medicine - Part 3
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If you are interested in planting a vegetable garden, the first thing you need to do is to find out when is then right time of year to do so in your part of the world. Also be aware that the right time varies depending upon the types of vegetables you are thinking about planting. When considering how you will go about planting your vegetables, generally most vegatables will fall into one of three categories; those that can tolerate slight frosts and can therfore be started outside earlier in the season, those vegetables that cannot tolerate frost and are started indoors earlier in the season to be transplanted later, and those that cannot tolerate cold or transplanting and are started outside later in the year.

Vegetables that like cooler temperatures and can be started outside earlier in the year include peas, carrots, beets, lettuces, spinache, and some types beans. They can tolerate light frosts, but not too much, so try to keep an eye on the weather during the earliest part of the planting season. Local news casts often give helpful information about projected frosts during this part of the year in order to help local gardeners know when to plant.

Vegetables that do best when started indoors inlclude tomatoes, broccolli, cauliflower, squash, some types of onions, peppers, brussel sprouts, and cabbage. These vegetables should be started about 30-40 days before you expect to transplant them to your garden. Transplanting will take place after the last frost of the spring.

Vegetables that should be started from seed outdoors will also be planted after the last frost of spring has passed. These vegetables include many root vegetables such as potatoes, and many types of beans.


Healthy Home Gardening

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We started a vegetable garden this year...there were several factors that motivated us to do so...among them were the rising cost of food due to ever increasing gasoline prices. Other important factors were the ever increasing amount of chemicals, antibiotics and hormones that are being introduced into the food that is available to us. Cheifly among our motivations was the desire to learn to be more self-reliant, and not to be dependent upon food sources that are fast becoming more scarce, more expensive, and more unsafe.
Home Garden Blog
Every type of seed package you purchase should have instructions that recommend one of these 3 ways of but it is not the rule. Weather conditions that are particular to your area should also be considered. For example, if you are growing in a warmer area that does not get frosts often, it may be better to start all your plants outside rather than transplanting them. Or if you are in a colder, high altitude area, you may have to wait until after the last frost before starting any vegetables outside. Getting advice about the weather from other gardeners in your area is invaluble, and is probably the best way to ensure the success of your garden.

When planning your garden it is very important to consider where the sun will be shining and where there will be shadows. Remember to consider the movement of the sun. Vegetables that like cooler temperatures will do better in places where there may be more shadows, but remember that too much shade may prevent your plants from growing properly, or even at all. Areas that are subjected to sun throughout the day are the places to plant vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and other heat loving plants.

It is also very important to consider what types of vegetables will be planted next to each other, as some types of vegetables don't get along with other types. For example, potatoes should not be planted next to tomatoes because they both extract large amounts of nitrogen from the soil, and there may not be enough nitrogen for both types of vegetables in one area. Or for example, that peas and beans actually inject nitrogen into the soil and may be beneficial to other vegetables that need high amounts of nitrogen. People call these types of vegetable relationships "companion planting". For help with companion planting in your garden, click HERE.

Another thing you'll need to consider when planting your garden is how it will be watered. If you are away frequently or have a very inconsistent schedule, you may find that after you've planted your garden you just can't seem to get it the water that it needs. It is very important especially in the early stages of growing your garden that it receives enough water. Seeds must stay at least slightly moist in order to sprout, and freshly transplanted seedlings often cannot tolerate the stress of insufficient water. But as always, try not to overwater, as overwatering can prevent your garden from growing properly, and may lead to molds, fungi and pests that can harm the health of your garden.

It is also good to think about what vegetables you may want to plant "successively". Sucsessive planting is when you plant a smaller amount initialy, and then about a month later you'll plant another small amount, and so on, so you'll have a continuous supply, rather than having a huge amount all at once. Vegetables such as lettuce, spinache, peas, snap beans, broccoli, and cabbage are often planted succesively. Depending upon your part of the world, there may be a point in the season at which you will stop succesive planting, as the seeds or seedlings will need sufficient time to mature before the growing season ends.

It may sound like a lot to consider, but most of all remember that you don't need to worry too much about doing everything just right. Most of these plants have been taking care of themselves for the last several thousand years and have done just fine without our help. But there are a few things to be aware of, and if you put a little thought into it before you plant your garden, it can be the difference between a modest harvest, or more fresh food than you could have imagined.

One thing we learned in our first experience planting a garden was the value of speaking to others who had done it before. If you have the ability to do this, then definitely don't miss out on the opportunity to get first hand information. It is often far more helpfull than the instructions that are printed on the back of your seed packages.
So... one of the first things you'll need to start a vegetable garden is to find a place to put it. Fortunately for us, there was a big backyard with a big lawn that was only producing big water bills, and not much else. So after not much deliberation, we decided to cut our losses and we tilled up the entire backyard. It was quite a bit of work, but everybody helped, and the experience was actually a lot of fun to go through. It was great to work together with everybody on a project that would benefit us all so much.

After tilling the yard once, we went through and pulled out the large chunks of grass that were left from the lawn. We would pick up the peices by hand and shake them off, removing a large portion of the dirt from the roots. After this we threw the peices into a corner of the yard we had designated for a composting pile, to use the material to help fertilize next year's food.

We tilled over the yard in a couple different directions to try to break up the grass and make the soil soft and ready for planting. It took us about two days, with a couple of people taking turns on the tiller. Toward the end, the tiller wasn't working so good. So we borrowed another one which broke down before we could finish, so we finished the job by hand with old fashioned spades. It actually wasn't a bad way to get the job done...with a couple of people working together we covered a lot of area really fast, and actually did a better job than either of the tillers had done. Tilling with the spades was very helpful around the edges, where the garden met things such as the concrete driveway and the fences around the yard.

At the end of the job, we had prepared over 2500 square feet in which to plant. We had begun some of our seedlings indoors about two months before we prepared the garden. With many varieties of vegetables, it is recommended that you plant them indoors to get them established before you transplant them to your garden. We started these seeds in small inexpensive plastic trays, using potting soil mixed with soil from the backyard. We placed them on a table by a window, but we found it neccesary to place some grow lights over them because the light from the window was not enough. It is easy to tell when a seedling of any type is not recieving enough light, because they will develop long, thin stalks that grow longer and longer as they try to reach up toward the light.

It's pretty easy to get lights that are suitable for growing plants indoors. You can buy "grow" lights at just about any wal-mart type place, but you can get better ones from garden shops. They don't cost hardly anything to run either...we had our lights on 24 hours a day for the first month (you can do this when they are seedlings), and I didn't see any increase in our power bills at all.

We bought most of our seeds from a couple different shops around town, but we did order a few types on the web. The types we started indoors were broccoli, red onions, roma tomatoes, beefsteak tomatoes, red cabbage, three types of cauliflower, brussel sprouts, serveral types of bell peppers, japanese egg plant, kale, and four types of basil.

We had a lot of space to fill in the garden, so we had to plant a lot of seeds. Each seed tray cost us only a dollor, and contained 48 separate cells in which to plant seeds. We had 10 or 11 of these on a large table next to a window, over which we placed a couple of large flouescent grow lights. Flourescent lights have to be placed quite close to the tops of the seedlings. Something like 3-7 inches.

I think I over watered the seeds at first. Everybody who had prior experience told me that you should let the top of the soil get dry before you water them again. It caused the area to stay damp and it attracted a lot of small gnats. I'm told that these gnats can lay eggs in the soil, and their larvae eat the roots of your seedlings. We didn't end up having a big problem with the, allthough they were very persistent, and didn't go away untill the seedlings went away.

In our area, the spring of 2008 was very cold and wet late into the year, which delayed the planting of vegatables for weeks, but it was ok with us as we were a little bit behind in our efforts to prepare the soil in the garden, and also to prepare the seedlings we had started indoors to be transplanted outside.

When plants are started indoors, it is often neccesary to "harden them" as they say. Since the young plants are not used to the sun, they need to be gradually introduced to the outdoors by moving them outside for what is at first a short period of time such as a couple of hours, eventually ending up about a week or two later with the seedlings remaining outside permanantly and being transplanted to your vegetable garden.

I don't know for sure, but I think some of our seedling may have died as the result of not being "hardened" well enough, as we were in a hurry to get them in the ground once the weather cleared up and the threat of frost was over.

The growing season had started late this year and we were anxious to get seeds into the ground. We had seeds for Fava Beans, Spinache, five types of lettuce, Snow Peas, Sugar snap peas, Tiger eye beans, Scarlet emperor runner beans, Cherokee wax beans, Lima Beans, Gold Mine beans, soybeans, Black Kabouli Garbonzo Beans, four types of beets, 3 types of carrots, two types of potatoes, several types of squash, and red winter rye that were all overdue to be started directly in the soil.

All the plants that we started indoors were transplanted at about the right stage in the weather, but we were late in planting our cool weather vegetables like peas, carrots, beets, beans, lettuce, and spinache. Some of these cool weather vegetables suffered as a result.

Though not all of the things in our garden did well, most of them did great. Among the best producers were the Cherokee wax beans. Cherrokee Wax Beans are a small reddish colored bean that is usually eaten as a dry bean. We planted them directly into the garden, as is recommended with most beans. We planted only one package containing about 70 beans, and ended up with about one mason jar full of dried beans. To begin with, there are two main types of beans, those that are to be eaten when they are green and tender, called snap beans or snap peas, and those that are to be eaten after being dried and removed from the pods, called dry beans. I did a bit of research about beans before planting the garden, and heard many things about the proper way to dry out the bean pods, but I found that the best way was to just leave them alone and let them dry out on the plant. You'll just have to keep an eye on them so as they don't get so dried out that the pods drop off into the soil and you lose your beans. If you don't think you can prevent this from happening, the other way is to pull out the plants toward the end of the season and let them dry out in a garage or somewhre similar. I think if you can let them dry on the plant, you'll likely get a larger yield, since the pods often devolop at different rates, and some pods may be already dry while others are still undeveloped and not ready for picking.

The red cabbage did very good, and is a very cool looking plant as well. The thick and fleshy leaves have a dusty, almost irredescent sheen to them, with an incredible range of colors from turquoise and blue greens, to reds and dark purples. Some cabbage heads reached 7 inches in diameter. It was a joy to watch them grow. You can harvest the heads at just about any point after they have formed and hardened. Cut the head at the base. Cabbage heads can be stored for up to 3 or 4 months in a cold refrigerator or cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees F. and freezing.

The Green Goliath Broccoli did quite well. We planted about 16 seedlings that we had strated indoors from seed. They seemed very strong and grew well when they were transplanted into the garden. They yeilded much more than we could use at once, so we learned that it may be better to plant broccoli successively. Since we were unable to eat as much broccoli as was being produced, many of the broccoli heads remain on the plants much longer than they normally would have, and near the end of the growing season many of the heads began to "bolt", growing long and thin. Bolting is when the plant reaches the stage in it's life-cycle in which turns it's efforts to making flowers and seeds. We discovered that this ultra-ripe broccoli was actually much sweeter and more tender then the broccoli that we had harvested in the earlier stages as is generally recommended. The broccloi was delicious and I would recommend trying some "bolted" broccoli anyday, just don't let it go for too long, as the little green buds will eventually sprout into small yellow flowers.

We planted three types of carrots, among them were a type called "purple haze". While having the traditional orange colored centers, these carrots have dark purple coloration on the outside. The more mature the carrot, the further inside the purple coloration reached. They seemed to grow a little more slowly than the other carrots we planted. All of the carrots we planted were started from seed, directly into the garden, as is often recommended with many root vegetables. The purple haze carrots seemed to grow much fatter and shorter than the other carrots. Some were only 3-4 inches long, while being 1.5 inches in diameter. They seemed to have a nice flavor, not much different than most other types of carrots, but a little more rich.

We planted another type of carrot called "scarlett nantes". These carrots grew very fast and seemed to do very well. These carrots looked very cylindrical, being thick, and stubby on the ends. Some grew as long as 8 inches and 1.5 inches in diameter.
They had a slightly different flavor than one may be used to in a carrot. A little bit more earthy, with just a hint of a musty flavor.

The third type of carrot we planted was called "royal chantennay", but they were planted in a part of the garden that was not well watered by the automatic sprinkler system that we had had installed, so the sprouts did not survive long, and we never had the chance to sample any of these.

One thing we did learn was that it is probably better to pull out the carrots when the soil is dry, because when the soil is wet, they seem to be "vacuum sealed" into the earth, and are very difficult to get out. Often the carrots will break half-way down as you try to wrench them out of the slippery. muddy soil, so try to pull them when the soil is dry and you'll save yourself a lot of effort and digging for broken carrot-halves. Carrots are often planted succesively, and can be left in the soil into the winter, though getting them may be difficult at that time.

We started two types of tomatoes indoors from seed. One type being the very large Beefsteak Tomato, and the other the small, acorn shaped roma tomato. Both grew vigorously as seedlings, but at the time of transplanting many of them had succumbed to a fungus, and were not looking very healthy. This was probably due to being overwatered in the early stages of their growth, allowing the fungus an overly wet environment in which it could establish itself. We we concerned that tomatoes affected by fungus may not survive, so we purchased about 12 tomato plants of varying types from a garden shop. We planted a total of about 40 tomato plants. Though the tomatoes affected by the fungus were a little slow to start, all recovered and did very well. We were a little short on tomato cages, so some plants were left without them. These plants could not support their own weight and sprawled out over the ground, at which point they were attacked by tomato eating snails. The snails were quite a problem and probably destroyed 5% of the tomatos that formed on the plants.

We started about 40 red onions indoors from seed, and actually ended up purchasing another flat of red onions and a flat of candy onions from a garden store. Each flat probaly had about a hundred small onions all clustered together. You have to pull them apart and plant them separately into your garden, about 5-8 inches apart. Onions are very strong and it's ok to tear the roots when pulling the clusters apart, which is about the only way you'll be able to do so. The bulbs of the red onions didn't grow nearly as large as those of the candy onions. Allthough the long, green onion tops of the red onions grew over 2 feet tall, the largest bulbs were only about 2.5 inches in diameter. In comparison the tops of the candy onions reached only about 16-18 inches tall, but some bulbs grew in excess of 3 inches in diameter. You can eat both the bulbs as well as the entire top of the onion, which depending upon who you ask, is often the best part.

We planted one package of about 40 Tiger Eye Bush Beans, which are larger, yellow colored beans with orange swirls on them. A very interesting looking bean, usually eaten as a dry bean. Though called a bush bean, the plants did grow long and viny, and promtly climbed up the sticks and poles we planted around them. Though they seemed to grow well, they only produced a handfull of dried beans.

We planted 2 packages of Windsor Fava Beans. We planted one patch in a shadier area, and another in the sun. The Fava bean planted in the shade grew 3 times as tall as the ones planted in the sun. The Fava Beans planted in the shade produced large 6-8 inch beans very quickly, while the ones in the sun did not. Both groups went dormant and looked as if they might die during the hottest part of the summer. Thier leaves curled tightly inwards indicating that they'd had enough sun, and were trying to limit their exposure. When temperatures relented in August, the very small Fava plants that had suffered so much in the direct sun suddenly bounced back and quickly began producing the same large beans, despite the much smaller size of the plants. The Fava Beans planted in the shade did not seem to bounce back in the same way, producing a few medium to large bean pods. Perhaps each plant can have only one good try at producing fruit. Fava Beans differ from most other beans in that it is possible for them to turn rancid if not stored properly. Generally Fava Beans are refridgerated after picking, and used within a week or two. You can eat the beans raw, but usually they are cooked. The pods are tough and not edible. It is possible to dry Fava Beans for later use or to plant next year, but I'm not too clear on how to do it right.

We planted one package containing about 40 Black Kabouli Garbanzo Beans. I had never seen a black Garbonzo Bean before, but they are truly black, and slightly smaller than it's more familiar counterparts. The plants looked very different than any of the other types of beans, so much so that they looked completely unrelated to each other. Most of the other types of beans have broad fleshy leaves, while the leaves of the garbanzo bean plants were very small and delicate, the plants looking almost fern-like. Before producing beans they developed very small lavender colored flowers, looking almost like miniature roses. All of the Garbanzo bean plants grew very slowly and never reached above 12-14 inches, each one producing only a dozen or so small pods containing one small black bean. The plants' small size may have been the result of planting them so late in the season. It is said that Garbonzo beans are particularly fond of cool weather, and the hot summertime temperatures that came so suddenly at the start of that year's growing season may have affected their productivity. As with most of the other beans, we let the pods dry on the plants. We ended up with only a small handfull of dried beans, but we may try again next year.

We planted 3 types of cauliflower that came in a mixed pack of seeds. One type produces bright purple cauliflower heads, another type produces pale green, and the other type the traditional white. They were started indoors and transplanted along with all the other seedlings. They grew well and became very large, but none of the 9 plants produced any cauliflower. We aren't sure why, but we may try again next year.

The Bloomsberg Spinache we planted didn't do well and we yeilded very little of it, probably because it was too hot. Many plants such as spinache and lettuce will "bolt" when it is too hot for them. Bolting is when the plant thinks that it's too hot to survive, or that it is late enough in the year that it should shift it's efforts to making flowers and seeds rather than producing the nice parts that you want to eat. Bolting often transforms the entire appearance of the plant. When bolting, lettuce and spinache grow very tall very fast, producing thick stems rather than tender leaves. Shortly after, they will develop seed clusters at their tips, which will later turn into flowers.

The snow peas grew very fast but produced only small number of pods, and died shortly after. We don't know why, but imagine that it may have been due to being planted so late in the season. We got about 3 dozen pods from about a half pack of seeds.

The soybeans didn't do too well, and again we suspect that it may have been due to the exceptionally late and then abruptly hot growing season we had. They were planted directly in to the garden as rhe package recommnded. The package said that if the weather was cold or wet, to wait untill it had dried before planting them, but being our first attempt at growing soybeans, we are not sure if the waether was a factor in their diminished success. We planted two packages each conatining about 60 seeds, but only about 10 plants emerged, and about 6 survived, giving us a couple of handfulls of bean pods. Soybeans differ from most other beans in that it is possible for them to turn rancid if not stored properly. Soybeans should be refridgerated after picking, and used within a week or two. You can eat the beans raw, or cooked. The pods are tough and not edible. It is possible to dry soybeans for later use or to plant next year, but I'm not too clear on how to do it right.

We planted about 40 Gold Mine beans, which are a long, slender and brightly yellow colored bean. They are usually easten as a snap bean. Only 2 or 3 of them emerged, and none survived longer than a couple of weeks due to snails. Snails were a persistent problem for us, and they really loves eating the young tender bean leaves. We estimate snails were responsible for the death of about 100- 200 bean plants, consuming every last leaf, ensuring the death of the seedling. Despite the snails, we are not sure why so few Gold Mine Beans emerged.

The rye didn't do well, again probably due to the heat. Rye is usually planted in the fall, and actually grows through the snow. We had heard that it was heat tolerant and thought we'd give it a try in the summer, but the grains it produced were too small and too scarce to be usable.

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